It’s funny how it seems like everything has changed in a period of time, but then, some things haven’t changed at all. I haven’t been home in one year. I never thought I’d say that. Ever. I’m a homegirl if ever there was one. A homebody most of the time, to be exact. I’m happy to just stay within my one mile radius of house to surf spot on Anastasia Island for extended periods of time. I love it. And that’s why I had to leave it. Because I could just stay there forever and never get a sense for the rest of the world.
So I’ve been living in Australia and traveling for the past year, surfing the best waves of my life so far….
And yet, I still can’t wait to get home and surf 1 foot Mary Street in ankle deep water, dodging tourists and scraping the bottom with my fin. It’s the best. Point breaks are wonderful, but nothing compares to the homebreak. However, neither does the homebreak compare to the point. They are both equally wonderful in their own special ways. And it is a supreme joy to get to experience both often.